Truro is a 4 hour train ride from Paddington in West London. For some, that will simply be too far to consider, but if you're enjoying your trip to London and want to experience the UK from the other end of the spectrum, then a trip to Cornwall can be an eye-opening contrast.

London is pacey, people will streak past you, tutting, no matter how fast you move around stations, but Cornwall couldn't be more different. Better to allow extra time when getting to destinations, as people are inclined to engage you in conversation, especially if they've never seen you before. The automatic and initial 'big city' reaction to this, can be snorting derision. But this eventually dissolves after a day or two, and a real affection for the different pace of life replaces it. I can't promise the weather will be good, but when it is, the local scenery is hard to beat. It's worth noting too, that 'Devon and Cornwall' (the two neighbouring counties are often lumped together - much to the chagrin of one another) is the most popular holiday destination for Brits, despite jetting abroad being an option for the last 30 years.

History

Cornwall (or 'Kernow' to the Cornish) used to be a separate kingdom in its own right, with its own language and there's still a minority who lament its inclusion in England and the UK. You'll also see the Cornish flag (of Saint Pirran - a white cross on a black background) stuck to the back of local cars. To be fair though, most of these are on cars belonging to people who've retired here, and actually hail from Redcar, or Nuneaton. Cornwall was also the most mineral-rich area of mainland Britain, blessed with significant deposits of Copper and especially Tin, but both of these were exhausted by the 1970s and Cornwall's mining heritage went into inevitable decline. It's still a major source of China Clay, which is the UK's second largest export, being used in everything from toothpaste to magazines (it's the additive which makes glossy magazines, 'glossy'). Far and away the largest industry and employer in the county however, is tourism.

Gettting There

There's an option to fly to Newquay from London's Stansted airport by Ryan Air which is a very cheap if booked in advance. It takes a little under an hour. Stansted is a short train ride from Liverpool Street Station.

Going by train takes you along some of the most scenic track in the UK. It's all pretty standard until you get to Exeter, in Devon, when the train moves from inland to run along the estuary, then the coast. Ooh it's magical. The hard-nosed, London reserve ebbs away and strangers nod at the beauty of the coastal route and haltingly at first, begin to downshift into smalltalk. The spectacle lasts about 20 minutes, then the paperbacks and puzzle books are resumed.
Driving will take 5-7 hours, dependent on traffic. Mostly motorway (M4 then M5), but once you hit the A30, the roads become switchbacked as you scale and descend the Moors.

The other option is coach, which is the cheapest, but requires Herculean stamina. It's straightforward to Plymouth, in Devon, but when crossing the border into Cornwall, the coach stops at every two-horse-town in the county on its way to Penzance. Allow 3-4 hours to traverse the modest 60 miles of Cornwall's length.

Truro

Truro is the county town and largest settlement in Cornwall. It's also conveniently central for exploring the nearby sights and beaches. It has shops, restaurants and bars, on a much smaller scale than London, but the town itself is picturesque with the cathedral dominating the centre. Cobbled streets, thick Cornish stone and open running water give the city a unique atmosphere and the 'Hall for Cornwall' in Lemon Quay hosts nationally touring plays, shows and concerts. If you're going to get a pasty (Cornwall's renowned fast-food contribution), then "Rowe's" are the popular local option. Cornish Pasties were developed as a miner's all-in-one lunchtime meal, as the meat and vegetables are encased together in pastry. The thick crust was originally a 'handle' for the grubby miners to grip while they ate, and was traditionally discarded at the end.

Nearby places to visit:

The following places are definitely worth seeing, so it might be worth hiring a car if you're going to take a few days out. You can book a hotel through Late Rooms on the Inside Guide to London site. The county is small and has a main road (the A30) running along its central spine (no motorway though), so navigation is simple enough. Why? Cornwall, along with the Lakes (in Northern England) has probably the best scenery in the UK - and the best beaches too.

Perranporth

Is a wide flat beach on the north coast, 8 or so miles from Truro. It's a small town with little in the way of shops or facilities. However its broad and sandy beach is spectacular, with plenty of room to spread along if the weather is good.

Watergate Bay and 15

Watergate Bay is a few miles north of Newquay on the north coast of the county, meaning it's also popular with surfers, kite surfers and sand yachters. The Beach Cafe, was a well-known 'secret' amongst locals until it was bought by Jamie Oliver and replaced with the Cornish branch of his '15' restaurant chain. The present Beach Cafe has been relocated downstairs, but isn't the draw it once was. 15 however, receives regular praise and the views across the sands are exceptional.

Gwithian

If you haven't been here. You should go. Locals won't thank me for posting, but...

St. Ives

A very chic town with a picturesque harbour and unusually for Cornwall, chic businesses, boutiques and restaurants. Very popular with Londoners, the place has plenty of hotels and lettings and for six months of the year is seething. However its unique light has also made it a mecca for artists (The Tate, St. Ives is here, as is the Barbara Hepworth Museum). If you're visiting for the day, my advice is to drive to the Park and Ride service. You catch the train into St. Ives, from a parking field, which has sensational views as it clings to the cliffside. You also avoid driving into the centre with its narrow, one way lanes and minimal parking opportunities. Trust me, take the train in - the streets would struggle to accommodate toy cars and getting out again takes brave and inspired guesswork. Also, another tip - If you buy a pasty or ice cream - eat it with your back to a wall, otherwise a seagull will glide in for a steal. They won't attack from the front, just eyeball you with irritation.