Hunterian Museum - Royal College of Surgeons
The Hunterian Museum is on the south side of Lincoln's Inn Fields, in an area which is host to many of London's hidden treasures (Sir John Soane's Museum is across the fields, Lincoln's Inn is a few doors down and Temple Church and the Royal Courts of Justice are a short walk away). It's housed within the headquarters of the Royal College of Surgeons of England, which can trace its lineage back to the mid-fourteenth century. As many paintings, etchings and cartoons attest to, there was considerable friction between barbers and surgeons in earlier times. They were eventually split into separate guilds, of surgeons and barber-surgeons, overseen by Henry VIII; though it would take several more centuries before surgeons became an independent body in their own right.
The Company of Surgeons moved to their current address in 1797, though in a less
impressive building. There is a tradition that surgeons are not referred to as "Dr" but as "Mr", a nod to their historical origins. Physicians were originally required to hold a medical degree, but barber-surgeons were not. Due to prickly relations between the two guilds, surgeons reverted back to "Mr" even after they later became degree-qualified and earned the right to the title of "Dr". The original building suffered from early structural defects and was replaced by another in 1841, designed by Sir Charles Barry. Barry was the chief architect of the Palace of Westminster and many other significant buildings including: the Reform Club in Pall Mall, Cliveden and the remodelling of Highclere Castle (Downton Abbey, to its fans). Unfortunately, as you'll discover from numerous photographs if you visit, the building was destroyed by a Luftwaffe bomb in 1941, though the library and portico still remain.
In 1799 the college acquired the collection of John Hunter, which is where most of the exhibits hail from. Hunter was a skilled anatomist and surgeon who lived in Leicester Square (there's a bust of him near the entrance to The Odeon). He was also an avid collector,
some say too avid, and would stop at little to acquire a specimen. There are certain rumours of bodies murdered-to-order surrounding him and his brother, though supporting evidence is scant. There are many endorsements of John Hunter's kindness, explaining that he would treat those without the means to pay, gratis. However, they are heavily outnumbered by those lamenting his argumentative and difficult nature. In addition the collection is augmented by several others including Richard Owen's, the man who coined the phrase 'Dinosaur', and was the driving force behind the Natural History Museum, in South Kensington.
Check the map below for the location, as you're not going to wander into this building by accident, being the sobering and imposing edifice that it is. However, the welcome at the Hunterian reception couldn't be warmer or more efficient. You receive your pass on a lanyard, the kind you might hang around your neck when visiting corporate sites, and make your way up the grandest of staircases, lined with oils depicting former presidents of the Royal Society of Surgeons (of England). The museum is on the first floor and has two levels, with the gallery above.
The specimens are presented in spic-and-span glass cases and photography is not permitted. A shame, because most museums do permit non-flash photography and photos are the most effective method of advertising places of interest - in a social media driven, World Wide Web. So, this article uses Wiki-commons sources (though the exterior shot is original).
The Hunterian Museum is grisly and as a result, enormously popular with visitors. A group of American lads, probably late-teens were streaking around, and I overheard the following exchange:
Kid 1: "This is... like... the sweetest museum we've seen, right?"
Kid 2: "Oh, for sure...!"
Parts of the Hunterian are a near continual wince-fest, but it's hard to look away (like 'rubber-necking' traffic accidents). "I just hope they were dead when they cut that off" - drifted in and out of my mind several times. Implements and instruments that preceded anaesthesiology lurk around every corner; when you imagine just the sight of them, would be enough to render subjects unconscious. In addition there are numerous works of art of such importance, that it really should be considered a gallery as well as a museum. In its formative years there was less distinction between the arts and sciences (stretching back to Da Vinci and beyond) and it was common to serve on the board of both types of institution. Consequently many artists assisted in the study of anatomy resulting in works by George Stubbs and Joshua Reynolds, being included in the collection. There are paintings of extinct animals, an early operating table (more of a consulting chair, that extends) and many interactive exhibits to fiddle with.
Among the collection highlights are the skeletons of Irish Giant, Charles Byrne and that of Thief Taker General - Jonathan Wild, which is how the museum came to my attention. You can read more about the infamous London underworld boss, by following the previous link.
Free, interesting, welcoming and enlightening. Go when you can spare the time, though 'browse after lunch' is my advice.
Charles Byrne - The Irish Giant is scanned and examined for the first time. He didn't want to be medically researched after death and had requested a burial at sea. John Hunter's persuasive powers and pocketbook, took care of any dissenters.
Admission is free.
Opening times: Tuesday-Saturday 10am-5pm
Access: entry to Hunterian Museum for people who are wheelchair users or have a mobility problems that prevent them from climbing steps is through the entrance at the Nuffield College of Surgical Sciences building to the left of the main college, where there is a wheelchair lift. These buildings are linked internally by a direct level route with no stairs. Please call 020 7869 6560 to discuss your access requirements.
The Hunterian Museum, The Royal College of Surgeons of England, 35-43 Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, WC2A 3PE
Call: 020 7405 3474
Nearest Tube: Holborn, Chancery Lane or Temple.



