There is some dispute about whether a bridge existed across the Thames during the early Roman occupation, 2,000 years ago. Although evidence of pilings has been uncovered, the 'no bridge' argument contends that these pilings merely supported a pier. However a military pontoon-bridge would require no pilings and when examining the road structure that the Romans introduced, you have to wonder. If they were unable to bridge the Thames at the point where London evolved, why did it evolve there at all? Evidence from the Museum of London suggests that London was not initially a garrison town, but a commerce centre. It expanded based on the activity surrounding it and bridging the Thames, would have only modestly taxed Roman engineers.

Medieval London Bridge

After several later Roman and Anglo-Saxon bridges, all constructed of wood, there was a strong desire for something more permanent and if at all possible - less flammable. Old London Bridge was supposedly completed in 1209 and the first to be constructed from stone (there is some conflict with dates, as a post-dated fire in 1212 was said to have destroyed the 'wooden bridge' entirely). Its design was more causeway than bridge, with twenty arches from the south to north bank. Each arch was different in size and ratio and several segments collapsed during construction, perhaps suggesting the design was continually refined during the construction phase. Alarmingly, it also caught fire several times; likely to have been caused by the scaffolding igniting (which was still constructed of wood).

The bridge was furnished with houses, traders and other functional buildings, along its length on both sides; after permission was granted by King John. The tax levied on businesses - according to his law - would be used to maintain the bridge. In order to withstand the tremendous weight of London Bridge on the soft river bed, each culvert (the arch below the bridge allowing water to flow through) was supported on either side by enormous starlings. These acted as giant 'feet' and allowed the culvert load to be spread, preventing the bridge from sinking into the mud. These starlings also varied in size and became far more substantial than was entirely safe. In the century before demolition they restricted 80% of the tidal ebb and flow of the Thames, which had two immediate consequences. Firstly, water-speed slowed significantly along the Thames, causing it to freeze during harsh winters. The second was that when the tide was on the way out, the culverts became 'white-water' rapids and exceptionally hazardous to navigate. Boats generally stayed up-river of the bridge, or down-river. London Bridge was for "wise men to pass over and for fools to pass under," went the saying. Though "shooting the arches" was attempted by the brave, foolhardy or drunk, often resulting in disaster when the tide retreated.

The houses and shops took up precious road space and meant that crossing the bridge could take equally precious amounts of time - up to an hour was common. London Bridge was 26 feet wide, with the buildings taking seven feet on each side and overhanging the water by a further seven feet. This left 12 feet for pedestrian traffic and carts, divided into two 6 foot lanes, one heading north and one heading south. From 1722, those heading north were instructed to use the west lane and those heading south, the east lane. Driving on the left in the UK, appears to have sprung from this simple directive to ease congestion. It was common for accidents, broken carts, or incidents of interest to bring traffic to a standstill on London Bridge. It was for this reason that many chose to employ the 'wherrys' or 'ferrymen' when crossing the river. One of the boatmen's seats can still be seen on the Southbank today.

There were over 200 businesses on London Bridge, with the general format of 'shops' on the ground floor with window displays, and traders' living quarters above. Each would have a sign to display the goods on offer for the illiterate, which would be hung at a height allowing riders on horseback to pass beneath. The legend below one of these signs from the 16th century, indicates an early proficiency for marketing spiel: "Walter Watkins, Breeches-maker, Leather-seller, and Glover, at the sign of the 'Breeches and Glove,' on London Bridge, facing Tooley Street, sells all sorts (of) leather breeches, leather, and gloves, wholesale and retail, at reasonable rates." Many of the houses also joined one another at higher levels for stability (and permitted access between neighbours).

Looking down the bridge from bank to bank, it resembled something like a busy shopping thoroughfare, wedded to a tunnel. Not every space was occupied by buildings and there were several points where travellers would be able to gaze across the Thames, and appreciate the city surrounding them.

With gate houses and a draw-bridge, London Bridge was also a secure place to live, with a tightly knit community, almost a separate town in its own right. It also had the odd celebrity resident. Hans Holbein (the Younger) lived here and enjoyed early patronage by Anne Boleyn before his elevation in status to King's Painter to the court of Henry VIIIth. Holbein spent many years in London and produced several portraits of Henry, his wives and significant members of his court. His most famous work - The Ambassadors - is on display at the National Gallery, London. It's also believed that Hogarth lived on London Bridge as a young man, since there are separate and unrelated citations, which name him as an early engraver's assistant.

Nonsuch House, the South Gate and waterwheels

Nonsuch House was completed during the reign of Elizabeth I, last of the Tudors and is recorded as being the first pre-fabricated house in existence. The parts were engineered and assembled in Flanders, before being dismantled, shipped over and then constructed on London Bridge using wooden 'pegs' rather than "carpenter's nails, mason's mortar, or smith's iron." It was named after Nonsuch Palace owned by Henry VIIIth and so called because there was "no such place" to equal its unparalleled splendour. Elaborately carved, its arch straddled the bridge and acted as a grand gateway to the City of London. Each corner was a square tower with cupolas at the summit, and gilded vanes above, which could be seen glinting from the distant banks of the Thames.

The South Gate was rebuilt at a similar time to the construction of Nonsuch House; imposing and three stories high, the practice of attaching heads to the scaffolding became a tradition borrowed from Traitor's Gate (the Thames entrance to the Tower of London). The heads would be preserved in pitch and then speared by a pike. Upwards of twenty heads at a time, eerily contemplating the citizens below, was by no means uncommon. Initially they were displayed on the tower by the drawbridge at the centre of London Bridge, but this and the drawbridge were dismantled in 1577 and the tradition of heads on pikes was moved to the South Gate, where they remained. This 'Southwark side' where the South Gate was located, was also known as Bridge-foot and had an infamous pub called "The Bear", which featured in many writers' accounts of the area, including Pepys and Shakespeare.