Opened in 1871, Maison Bertaux is a little slice of traditional France in a capital dominated by chains (and I do mean 'little slice', the portions are modest). Let's get the pricing out of the way first - it's the most common complaint and not unfounded. It is expensive and the interior could probably use a 'freshening' - but like the nearby Andrew Edmunds restaurant - it's scruffy chic (or merely scruffy, depending on your generosity of spirit). What you do get is pretty special cake and some theatrical service. The patisserie is owned by two duelling sisters, so you won't get the bland service style of chains ("...there you go." Clunk!)

Maison Bertaux also don't do a range of coffees, requesting a skinny-mocha-choca-latte might get you thrown out. Their raison d'etre is doing the cake-thing, a cut above standard. If you don't mind paying extra, then it's worth dipping in to experience, because chains mean that this kind of business is fighting a continual uphill battle and probably won't survive. There are some tables and chairs out front, for people watching, but Greek Street's a crush at the best of times, so don't expect to stay long.

So: expensive, dated, cramped - coffee merely aceptable, with limited choice and dippy staff - Check! Tempered by good cake and a theatrical atmosphere. Worth visiting Maison Bertaux?  Absolutely. (If you're worried about being fleeced, just get their cheapest item to take-away).


Open Daily 8:30am-8pm

Maison Bertaux, 28 Greek Street, Soho, London, W1D 5DQ
Call:          020 7437 6007
Nearest Tube is Leicester Square