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Ottolenghi - Belgravia

(1 vote, average 5.00 out of 5)

Yottam Ottolenghi writes a column for the Guardian (The New Vegetarian) and his recent venture Ottolenghi Belgravia is a cafe with a small space to eat in, selling a broad range of cakes and sweet and savoury pastriesinto cookbook-land has been a success, even without a BBC programme slot to pitch the book into (you can buy copies at any of his four outlets). He specialises in bakery, having trained at the Cordon Bleu school in London before branching into pastry and baking at The Capital and Kensington Place. Although he made his mark in baking, he's also renowned for his meat, fish and vegetable dishes and for the use of lesser-known spices like Sumac and Za'atar (a blended spice mix).

The Belgravia branch of Ottolenghi is not overburdened with space, but has a large table at the rear and seating outside when the weather is fine (a small, but cherished al-fresco 'window' occurs in the UK, Jun-Aug generally). The shop has a retro feel to it, with hints of mullion windows from a Georgian past. The cakes and pastries are positioned to catch your eye before their siren song tempts you "Come in, come in... Look at all this cake available!" Tea, Coffee, salads, savoury pastries, cakes, sweet-treats, sandwiches are all artfully displayed between floral bouquets, in a surgically white room. Prices are about right for the location and you can taste the ingredients which have gone into Ottolenghi's produce - butter, quality sugars, nothing cheap and insipid. So if you're after budget snack, then buy cheaper, but you will taste the difference as Sainsbury's like to remind us with frequent hammer-blows.

 

Monmouth Coffee Company

(1 vote, average 5.00 out of 5)

Best coffee in town. A bold claim and no doubt there will be numerous detractors, but on balance - probably a fair claim too. The Monmouth Coffee Company Monmouth Coffee Company - single estate beans, organic milk and some lovehearts swirled into your coffee foam. Niceuse whole-bean coffee sourced from single farms, estates and cooperatives. When you take this much care and attention, then other components, in order to 'not let the side down', also have to be top-notch. The milk is organic from a single supplier jersey herd in Somerset, the sugar is organic whole cane, also from a single source in Costa Rica. Plates of sticky, sweet pastries and cakes are also available - sourced from Paul and Villandry and also truffles from Sally Clarke in the colder months, with single-origin chocolates from François Pralus.  You can eat in the shop if you find a tiny perch, however it's primarily a take-away  with a steady stream of customers. No secret location, but just off the beaten track -  the clientele are loyal because quality sells. Do something well in the middle of a large city and your chances of being a success are so much higher.

 

Maison Bertaux

(2 votes, average 5.00 out of 5)
Opened in 1871, Maison Bertaux is a little slice of traditional France in a capital dominated by chains Maison Bertaux - the last of a dying breed of individual patisseries, that bakes on the premises. Pricey, but nicey(and I do mean 'little slice', the portions are modest). Let's get the pricing out of the way first - it's the most common complaint and not unfounded. It is expensive and the interior could probably use a 'freshening' - but like the nearby Andrew Edmunds restaurant - it's scruffy chic (or merely scruffy, depending on your generosity of spirit). What you do get is pretty special cake and some theatrical service. The patisserie is owned by two duelling sisters, so you won't get the bland service style of chains ("...there you go." Clunk!)

Maison Bertaux also don't do a range of coffees, requesting a skinny-mocha-choca-latte might get you thrown out. Their raison d'etre is doing the cake-thing, a cut above standard. If you don't mind paying extra, then it's worth dipping in to experience, because chains mean that this kind of business is fighting a continual uphill battle and probably won't survive. There are some tables and chairs out front, for people watching, but Greek Street's a crush at the best of times, so don't expect to stay long.

So: expensive, dated, cramped - coffee merely aceptable, with limited choice and dippy staff - Check! Tempered by good cake and a theatrical atmosphere. Worth visiting Maison Bertaux?  Absolutely. (If you're worried about being fleeced, just get their cheapest item to take-away).

 

Lorelei

Like everything else in this place, the coffee machine at Lorelei has been here for decades. However, the espresso it produces is one of the best Lorelei: unpretentious and serves great coffee.and probably the cheapest too. Lorelei has an unpretentious atmosphere and delivers cheap, no-frills coffee and snacks, of good quality.

 

Bar Italia

Founded in 1949 and open twenty three hours a day, Bar Italia's neon entrance sign, classic cafe stools and continental counter, Bar Italia: established and authentic, can get busy at peak times and a haunt for 'trendies'.create an authentic atmosphere to the place. Feels ike a filmset, can become over-run with trendies - is somewhat pokey and prices are steep. Bar Italia is partway between local institution and tacky tourist magnet.

 
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