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Hidden London: Brockwell LidoFor several weeks a year, London temperatures are smoking. Cool in the pool...
Cittie of Yorke – Holborn
The Cittie of Yorke, High Holborn is another City pub with a fascinating history. Several rebuilds on the original location, over the last 500 years (though possibly even earlier)
has led to a mish-mash of architectual styles that work well together. It operated as a coffee house for many hundreds of years, which is reflected in the wooden booths (carrels), where financial deals would have been struck. London's own stock exchange, came into existence in similar circumstances in Jonathan's Coffee House, Change Alley.
Walk through the door to the right and take a left to enter the front bar which is quieter with more seating. The big space is at the back of the Cittie of Yorke, so keep heading down the hall to get there. It's a surprise when you first enter with a distant vaulted ceiling, like a church. You have to be early to get one of the booths as they fill up fast and drinkers tend to hang in there for the whole evening. Large barrels or vats (the kind you could stomp around in to make wine) sit above the bar and I suppose if you were visiting the UK, this might be the Olde Worlde image of what a London pub should look like. It has plenty of atmosphere and is a busy place during weekdays with the longest public bar in the UK servicing the punters. The crowd is 'City' with a high legal/banking headcount. I know this because you often have to shout to get heard - hence you hear a lot of 'private' conversations.
The Cittie of Yorke is open on Saturdays too, but the atmosphere changes again. It's more of a student pub - somewhere to go to before a trip out clubbing. Partly because of the space and atmosphere, but also because it's Sam Smiths and serves the cheapest lager in town (Alpine - just over £2 a pint). You can conclude this on your own if you stand at the bar for 10 minutes or so. Every second order is for a round of 'Alpine'.
The Cittie of Yorke has its detractors, too noisy, too busy, rude staff (sorry - never encountered that myself), but the drinks are cheap and the interior is exceptionally interesting. Maybe not a quiet local, but for meeting friends before going on somewhere - there aren't many better.
The name 'Cittie of Yorke' is relatively recent, christened in 1979 when it was taken over the Sam Smiths Brewery. Like the Jerusalem Tavern it hasn't been a pub for hundreds of years - less than a century in fact, but it does have authentic patches and most Tudor buildings in this part of the city were destroyed by the Great Fire of London. The nearby Staple Inn being one of the very few exceptions.
Cross over High Holborn and pass through the narrow alley to visit Lincoln's Inn Fields, or if you're taking in a few pubs - you could try The Ship Tavern or Ye Olde Mitre, both of which are nearby.
Cittie of Yorke, 22 High Holborn, Holborn, London, WC1V 6BN.
Chancery Lane or Holborn Tube.
Call: 020 7242 7670
Open: 11:30am -11:00pm Mon-Fri, 12:00pm - 11:00pm Sat, Closed - Sun.



