Award winning bar, in what is consistently London's highest rated hotel. Charles de Gaulle stayed here with his French government in exile, so it has the gravitas to handle the most demanding strata of guest. It does this however with friendly good humour and efficiency. The prices are steep, yes, but the service is smart and expertly done. A friend recently asked what the cheapest bottle of wine was on the list, a cue if ever there was one, for gently patronising the customer, but not a bit of it. Suggestions abounded, as did the delicious complementary snacks. There are few finer bars in town, I'm sure.

It is the kind of venue that can seem intimidating, but like any of the upper echelon of hotels, politeness is second nature: it's really only the nouveaus and arrivistes who resort to smug superiority. The service is efficient, friendly and thoughtful, drinks are peerless and celebrities will tend to waft in and out. On a budget, perhaps a special treat outing, rather than a regular haunt, but worth experiencing for the theatre of social drinking at the upper end of the pecking order.